BC&B: Soupe à l’Oignon Pied de Cochon w/ Anchoïade Chez Gilbert

As you will remember from the previous chapters of this blog series (*cough* *cough*), I’m cooking my may through the Bistro Cooking book. So for dinner tonight I’m starting off with:


So that’s an… anchovy… paste thing on toast, I guess?

So here’s the ingredients: It’s really super-simple, once again: Basically just garlic, anchovies and bread. (And vinegar and parsley.)

So first you’re supposed to toast the crusty baguette, and the phrase above stopped me in my tracks. “Set aside; leave on the broiler.” LEAVE WHAT ON THE BROILER? The bread? How do I leave the bread on the broiler? Won’t it get over-broiled?

And after like five hours it dawned on me that she meant “leave the broiler on”.

OH!

OK, that mystery out of the way, there’s chopping…

Toasting…

Putting the anchovies into some water for ten minutes for reasons not explained. (As somebody who doesn’t know what he’s doing at all, it would be really nice if recipes mentioned what they were trying to achieve with certain steps, but I guess there’s space limitations.)

This is to make the anchovies less salt, perhaps? Or less oily? In any case, I don’t think this achieved any of those things, because it tasted as salt before I put it into the bowl of water as before. I mean, they’re oil covered.

And then everything is chopped and mixed together…

And that’s the result!

And…

It’s… really… flavour forward? I mean, it’s basically raw garlic and anchovy bits on toast. If you don’t like raw garlic or anchovies, it’s really going to suck. I love garlic and I like anchovies, but even for me, this was a bit of a shock, because… it’s just that?

I don’t think many people would find this pleasurable, and it didn’t pair with the book (about which look further down).

But for the mains I’m doing the first soup in the book:

Soup time! I love onion soup, despite there being cheese involved. But at least this cheese is going to get fried, so it’s less disgusting.

But to make the soup, I have to make chicken stock, which is something I’ve never done in my entire life.

It’s these veggies…

… and then plonk into a pot with the chicken carcass.

After boiling (I mean simmering) for a while it looks a whole less perky.

And then you separate the solids from the fluids and then let it refrigerate. Meanwhile, I’ll start reading a book!

The next book on the shelf (which I therefore have to read while eating the soup) is Normal People by Sally Rooney. I don’t quite know how I ended up buying this? I must have read somebody mentioning this as something particularly good?

In the months since I bought it, I’ve noticed that it’s popped up several times as a subject on a bunch of web sites, so it seems like it’s become a Big Deal. I’ve avoided reading all those articles, so I have no idea why.

So let’s read the first three pages together:

Well, that’s interesting. I like the way it’s initially rather befuddling, with the author (presumably) playing up the confusion factor by withholding information about what these characters’ relationships are, thwarting the reader’s expectations and making you take stock of what you’re reading. The conventions she uses for dialogues also contributes to the effect.

It’s a very interesting technique.

So it works on a sentence by sentence basis, but the plot and characters bore me silly: To be moronically mean, it’s about a nerd getting sexually involved with a jock The huge twist is that the nerd is an upper class girl who’s all kinds of fucked up (I mean, she’s upper class and all) and the jock is a very sensitive working class guy. But apart from that, we’ve all read this story 10x too many times, and it was pretty boring even the first time around.

Perhaps this mundane over-done subject matter is why it’s getting so much recognition? YA tropes dressed in an adulting literary style?

And just like YA books, there’s plenty of fan service: These paragraphs about how reading books is like great and deep and fantastic are catnip to readers. They tell us that we, the readers, are wonderful, special people. *puke*

This novel takes place like five years ago, and some of the references Rooney makes to even the most trivial stuff is incomprehensible to me. All the guys (in Dublin) wear “plum-coloured chinos”?

What?

These are what these students are wearing? In Dublin? Without getting beat up? Are you sure, Rooney?

Did you mean “khaki”? I mean, I guess some plums are khaki coloured? Or rather, plums exist with all colours in the world, so “plum-coloured” means nothing. “Plum” is a specific colour, but “plum-coloured”?

YES THIS ANNOYS ME.

Rooney’s description of the environs are often on this hand-wavey non-specific level.

OK, back to the soup. It’s basically just the stock, wine and onions.

Shake baby shake. That’s a lot of… collagen?

Half of the wine for the stock, half of the wine for the cook.

So after simmering for 45 minutes, the onions are all tasty and winey and I’m less whiney.

It’s kinda good…

But there’s like no seasoning I mean salt in there. I mean, look at that recipe again:


There’s no salt in it! Or like anything! It specifically says “unsalted chicken stock”. Is that a code word for “quite salty chicken stock”? I mean, it’s possible. Most stock is like 95% salt, so perhaps “unsalted” means “less than 2%”? I don’t know, but this seriously needed more salt.

And perhaps like some spices. Mmm… spices…

The cheesy bits were tasty, though, and… I mean, it’s OK, but it’s not the best onion soup I’ve tasted in my life.

So it’s a pretty good pairing for the book:

The plot feels awfully contrived, what with the sensitive jock getting depressed in the third act so that you can bring everything together nicely.

Of course, we (the dear readers) are much smarter than these literary people in college.

I guess what I find most grating in this maddening book is the way that the characters have these deep reflections upon themselves and their surrounds that sound nothing like what anybody has ever thought ever about anything, but are just like what an author ruminating wildly would type automatically.

OK, I think I’ve typed enough about this book, right? At this point it’s probably not entertaining to anybody, not even myself. But in summary: I think she writes well on the micro level, but it’s a pretty… annoying… book on a macro level.

But let’s take a look at a couple of reviews that I can finally read, like… say… this one.

All of this intellectual sauce has been ladled so thickly over the novel that it’s difficult to make out the shape of its much less grandiose origin, the thing the novel has always done and does better than any other medium on Earth: tell a story about how people decide whom to love and what they do about it. The eternal appeal of this foundation explains why Jane Austen and Charlotte Brontë are as much a pleasure to read now as they were 150 years ago.

And let me just snip a thing totally out of context from this review:

As clichéd as it is, Rooney’s work strikes me as relatable: Anyone who has ever tried to define love or purpose will find their food for thought here.

Right. It’s relatable. That’s what people want, I guess?

This blog post is part of the Bistro Cooking & Books series.

Bistro Cooking and Books

I’ve had this cook book by Patricia Wells for decades, and have always liked the results when I’ve made something from it. Which hasn’t been often, mind you, because I’m super lazy and the recipes often start with “take 25 rabbits…” and doing the required math to get down to the sizes I’m going for is a pain.

But I thought it might be fun to dig out my sliding rule and have a more focused go at it: Making all the recipes in the book. And since it’s so easy to pick the easiest one (even when not trying), that there should be some sort of system.

After pondering for what seemed like several minutes, I came up with this: I can choose freely among the chapters, but I have to proceed through the chapters sequentially. And I can make as many or as few dishes per night, so perhaps a salad and a mains or a dessert or whatever.

So there’s eleven chapters, and about two hundred recipes, so if I cook like two nights a week and do like two dishes per night, I’d be done in a year? Sounds like a plan?

But that’s not silly enough! I’m also going to be reading a book per Bistro Night, and instead of choosing the oldest books I have, I’m going to be reading the latest books I’ve bought, because that’s like the opposite? Right? Right?

Right.

I’m so clever C. L. V. R.

BC&B: Poulet Rôti L’Ami Louis w/ Gratin Dauphinois Madame Cartet

The major problem about blogging about cooking is that this is the default state of the kitchen:

I’m glad that nobody saw that picture, because there’s like no room to cook anywhere because I’m a slob.

Oops!

OK, that’s marginally better.

So today (the first day of this blog series) I’m cooking the first poultry dish, which is the roast chicken above.

What’s confusing about that recipe is that it’s… like… just a chicken in the oven. The only seasoning is salt! How is that supposed to taste fab?

And I’m making these potatoes as the side… and it’s a potato gratin, which I hate. I mean, I dislike most usages of cheese in dishes, unless it’s, well, pizza. In any saucey thing I think cheeses are kinda pukey. And that looks like a prime example of a ewww! dish to me. But we’ll find out!

OK, I’ve got the chicken in a pan suitable for roasting (and basting).

Look how delicious it looks after covering with duck fat and salt! Mmm!

I was humming Meat is Murder to myself, as I usually do when doing disgusting things to animal carcasses. Baking is a lot less yucky.

OK, that’s into the oven for an hour and a half at 220C.

Next, the potatoes.

And I’m finally getting to use this Kenwood kitchen machine add-on that I’ve never used before: The slicer.

Look! It worked! It sliced! I’m flabbergasted. Those Kenwood people know what they’re doing.

So that’s what it looks like after being covered with Gruyere and creme fraîche. That’s going to suck.

So every ten minutes, you take the chicken out of the oven and baste it (i.e., transfer the fat from the bottom of the pan onto the carcass). I’ve never done that before ever, and I’m like old, so it’s about time, right?

And I didn’t even burn myself seriously even once.

>

And then they’re both done! I didn’t get a proper sear on the potatoes, because I only have one oven and I had to cover the pan not to totally burn the potatoes to a crisp (because the chicken requires 220C and the potatoes are supposed to be done at 175C).

But I have to read something while eating!

So we’re doing the books in reverse chronological order, and this is the latest book I’ve bought. It’s Per Petterson’s newest book, and I’m sure you’re all familiar with his Out Stealing Horses? Right. This one has as a blurb up there “the author’s best book since Out Stealing Horses”, which made me very, very sceptical indeed, since “the best since ” is something that’s said about all books that been published since and aren’t as good.

And besides, I thought the book he did after Out Stealing Horses (the one about his mother) was better then that book, so…

But Menn i min situasjon (which means, er, Men In My Situation, I guess) is really good. I mean, he writes as well as ever on a sentence by sentence basis, and it’s kinda riveting at points, but whenever I put the book down (which didn’t happen a lot), I found that I wasn’t… really… that interested in what was going on in the book. I guess it’s really the subject matter, which has been covered in so many many books before (it’s about a divorce and stuff). All of Petterson’s other books have been more… interesting?

Which I guess explains the superlatives all the critics have heaped on this book. It’s an Officially Serious Subject, and you know.

But it’s a good read! It’s fine! There’s so many superbly described little scenes, and the mix of things that seem super-real and slightly not as real is intriguing, and the way he points out that the text is a mixture of those things.

So how was it with the food, and how was the food?

Despite not being about food at all, it’s a kinda roasted chicken book, so that’s fine.

The skin on the chicken was the tastiest I’ve ever tasted in my entire life, and I ended up eating all of the skin. It was totally crispy and incredibly tasty.

The rest of the chicken was… it was OK. It could have used more like herbs and stuff perhaps?

The potatoes were super-duper yucky, which I take to mean that I completely nailed the recipe.

Eww!

Cheese and potatoes!

Eww!

So that’s two recipes down, and 198 to go.

This blog post is part of the Bistro Cooking & Books series.

Entering the Clown

I’ve always been the self hosting kind of guy (i.e., old), but with recent changes I’m trying to simplify and move things around.

I’m not quite sure where I’ll end up with my main server(s) yet, and I’m testing out various things, but for my one self-hosted WordPress instance, I thought I could try something clownish.

I’ve used WordPress.com for this blog since forever, and I’m probably not going to change that, because it’s nice and easy and I don’t have to do any admin work at all. However, hosting on WordPress.com has some severe limitations, like not being able to put s into the pages, or use my own Javascript to make things… more fun.

So earlier this year I installed WordPress on my main server, and… It was just kinda painful to try to make that even remotely secure? I mean, you have to give the web server write access to its own PHP files? I mean, that’s the number one thing you’re never ever supposed to do? That means that any tine error in any plugin could lead to a convenient sploit on your server?

Trying to mitigate that was just a mess, so I thought that I’d at least move that blog somewhere else, so when I move my main server, I can forget about doing WordPress on the new location.

So I, at random, went with DigitalOcean, because it looked so simple: It even has a one-click way to install a new “droplet” (which is their cutesy name for a virtual server) with a complete WordPress install, with UFW (firewall) and basically everything… just there.

And it worked!

Reader, I am now in the clown with my Pacific Comics blog.

It was very painless. It took a while for it to import the media from my old self-hosted blog, but everything else worked way better than I had expected. And best of all, it’s pretty buzzword free: It’s just a virtual server that I can ssh into and do whatever, if I should so choose.

I feel so modern! Just a decade or two after everybody else!

Comics Cavalcade Day 12

Look at that pitiful selection of comics remaining! Will this be the day when I finally conquer the Window Sill Of Too Many Comics?

Let’s find out, and as usual: No reviews.

The Structure is Rotten, Comrade by Viken Berberian and Yann Kebbi (Fantagraphics)

This is a pretty odd book. The authors seem to want to say something about the demolition of old architecture (I think), but do it mostly through really weak jokes and so many layers of irony that it’s… just… odd.

Perhaps one of the problem is that some of these jokes don’t really translate so well.

Anyway, the artwork is rather spiffy.

OK, I snickered at that one. And I liked the constant wrecking balls in the skyline.

Heavy Metal #291 & 292 allegedly edited by Grant Morrison

A couple of years ago, I signed up for a Heavy Metal subscription. It’s nice getting stuff in the mail, right? Unfortunately, the contents of the magazine wasn’t very… good… so I was going to drop it.

And then Grant Morrison took over as the editor (sure) and I renewed the subscription, because I was curious as to how that was going to turn out.

And there wasn’t a big change: It’s still mostly vaguely 70s sci-fi, but kinda missing something.

Some older creators (like Richard Corben), but also a lot of younger ones. (Geez, look at that character design…)

Like Ed Luce. Unfortunately, it seems like everybody is pretty much conforming to the Heavy Metal template. It does mean that it’s pretty coherent as a reading experience, but it’s also so… samey…

Perhaps Enki Bilal is the biggest attraction here, which may explain why they’re serialising him at a totally glacial pace. It’s like six pages every issue from a very long story, so virtually nothing happens per issue.

It’s very pretty, though.

Hey! Gerhard!

There’s also a lot of “artist galleries” in here. It’s mostly comics-adjacent illustration, though.

Wow. A rare experimental piece by the editor and Rian Hughes.

Anyway, I let the subscription lapse.

Anti-Gone by Connor Willumsen (Koyama)

Yeah, yeah, I’m the last person in the world to read this book, which was The Official Best Comic of 2017, if I remember correctly.

As usual with Koyama, the feel of the book is excellent. But I’m somewhat nonplussed with how this got so much attention at the time. I mean, it’s good, and it’s exciting to see a new talent stretching, but…

… it’s basically a story about two young people getting stoned.

I guess that’s as universal experience there is, and it’s satisfyingly unnerving, but…

The artwork’s cute.

Willumsen’s piece in the newest Kramers was much stronger, I think.

Krazy + Ignatz: Inna Yott on the Muddy Geranium by George Herriman (Eclipse)

When I did the Eclipse blog thing I read all the rest of the Krazy + Ignatz volumes Eclipse published way back when, but this volume took about a year to arrive. So I’m reading it now.

It is, as usual, totally fantastic. And it’s a miracle that Hearst managed to force as many editors as he did into carrying it.

Mmmm… pancakes… I should make pancakes. Be right back.

Mmm… pancakes…

Tempo vol 25 (Egmont)

Hey, didn’t I just read one of these? *bing* Oh, right, they’re no longer publishing these nostalgic collections of action series for boys quarterly: They’ve stepped up to bi-monthly, which either means that it’s selling better, or that it’s selling worse and they’re trying to step up the pace and sell more to a diminishing audience before they all cancel their subscriptions?

I don’t know!

Anyway, it’s a standard mix of action stuff with more action stuff. The Bruno Brazil thing by Louis Albert/William Vance is pretty good: Vance’s noodly, dynamic and sharp artwork holds the attention.

The same can’t be said about this Ringo album, drawn by, er, William Vance. But five years earlier! 1968. It’s about a northern and a southern soldier teaming up. Sort of. I guess you could charitably describe the approach Vance takes here as chiaroscuro, but I think it’s probably just sloppy.

And finally, a Michel Vaillant short by Jean Graton. VROAROOA VROOAM! Everything a boy needs.

Father and Son by E. O. Plauen (New York Review Comics)

This kind of gag thing isn’t really my kind of thing.

But you have to admire the inventiveness.

I think the sentimental strips work better than the ones that are just going for the gag.

Still… not really my cup of oolong.

Shrimpy and Paul and Friends by Marc Bell (Highwater Books)

Oh, yeah, I got this 2003 book as part of the kickstartererd Worn Tuff Elbow #2.

With this nice thing, suitable for sowing onto my jacket.

Anyway, it’s a collection of 90s strips that I kinda guess were serialised in a free newspaper or something? Just guessing. It feels a lot more “underground” than just about anything else I’ve read from Bell, and more improvised. I mean, his other stuff seem to have a kinda floating logic to it, and a structure that isn’t obvious at first but then locks in. This feels a lot more random.

But I mean, it’s Marc Bell. The artwork is super cool and there’s jokes.

Oh, OK, not all the jokes work, but it’s a satisfying package.

Shipping Saver #1 by Marc Bell (No World Books)

Hm… Oh, yeah, the text up there explains what this is. Gotta love Marc Bell.

The booklet is pretty random, but fun.

Kindred by Damian Duffy and John Jennings (Abrams)

I normally avoid comics that are adaptations of novels like the plague… but I was kinda obsessed with Octavia Butler when I was in my 20s, and I kinda accidentally on purpose bought it.

Oy vey.

I viscerally hate this artwork. It’s got an “edgy”, “angular” sheen, but is just boring as fuck illustration. Why did Abrams go with this pair as doing the adaptation, anyway? Very strange choice.

What isn’t strange is doing Kindred as an adaptation. It’s Butler’s only… uhm… I want to say “clean book”, for some reason. But it’s her only book that’s mainstream bait, really. All her other books are intensely othering, while this is a high concept, straightforward sci-fi adventure: It’s about a black woman going back in time to Maryland in 1815, and the horrors that ensues.

Butler has seriously gone out of fashion, and it’s not difficult to see why (there’s nothing about her books that is not problematic), but she’s a brilliant writer.

I guess you could still adapt the Parable books…

Kindred is, like almost all of Butler’s books, very Science Fiction, with capital S and F; the characters react rationally to what’s happening and try to figure out how to work within this reality to survive. I love that, and I’m slightly surprised that they didn’t swap this out for So Much More Drama in the adaptation.

The adaptation mostly kinda actually works. It’s choppy as hell in some parts, but there’s sections that read well. It feels overstuffed, though, and overwrought in a way the original novel wasn’t.

But it could definitely have been so much worse than it is.

Komix #0-5 (Interpresse)

This is a Danish comics magazine from 1983-84 that I picked up used. I knew nothing about it, but I thought it might be fun to see what they were writing about.

It’s a mixture of interviews, reviews, articles and comics, like the Moebius short above I don’t think I’ve seen before.

The magazine is thematically stodgy: Since it’s 1983, I would have thought they’d be writing about what was exciting at the time, which was, well, Love and Rockets and what was happening in US alternative comics. But that’s virtually not mentioned.

Instead it’s all about undergrounds and Frenchey 70s comics.

Not that I mind seeing this Druillet/Tardi trifle, but it’s still weird. I guess they were just kinda… not very with it?

In the last couple of issues they cut down on the reviews and ran more comics, like this not very essential thing by Floc’h (which took about a quarter or the pages).

Heh. In the final issue, there’s a letter glued onto the inside back cover saying that Denmark is too small a country for a magazine like this, and that they’re returning the subscription fee.

Well, that mag was a bit of a disappointment all over… There were some interesting reviews in there, but nothing really… exciting.

I didn’t read the interviews, though. Because TIME.

Baron Bean vol 3 by George Herriman (IDW)

Hey, more Herriman! This is a series that I guess that he did partly concurrent with Krazy Kat? I haven’t read it before.

And… it’s… not as essential as Krazy Kat, perhaps. The jokes are pretty repetitive. Well, OK, they are in Krazy Kat, too, but they’re less corny and more weird there.

The marks are as delightful as ever.

You Don’t Get There From Here #45-49 by Carrie McNinch.

I love these… but I’m going to cheat now and put them by my bed and read them later. Because I have to clear that window sill today! And I’m behind schedule!

Marvel Two In One: Cry Monster by Steve Gerber and thousands more (Marvel)

The reason I bought this must have been that I was curious to see what Steve Gerber was up to in the early 70s. The first issue reprinted is written by Len Wein, and is boring as hell.

And it’s really too late for me to read the rest, so I’ll put it into the bedroom, too! I can stack all kinds of things in there! Sure!

And with that I succeeded! With almost no cheating! I have now conquered the Window Sill! Remember what it looked like! I did it! I will now never let it build up to such a ridiculous degree! From now on I will curb my comics buying and not ever go overboard again!

WHAT THE FUCK!? WHAT HAPPENED! THE SILL WAS EMPTY JUST SECONDS AGO! WHERE DID THOSE COMICS COME FROM!?!? Please don’t tell me that I went to the yearly sale at the comics store here a couple of days ago and went hog wild? Please!? PLEEEASE!

For one bright shiny moment…